Monthly Archives: December 2011

Last Minute Home Landscape Tips and Tasks for a Mild December

Enjoying the mild weather this December?  Take advantage of the cozy conditions and get outside to complete a few tasks that typically have to wait until spring!  With ground unfrozen, there’s still time to…

1. Feed your lawn if you haven’t done so this fall.  Use a slow release fertilizer, either an organic or a “winterizer” type.  Lime may still be applied as well.  A good rule of thumb for applying lime is 40lbs per 1000 sq. ft., or follow soil test recommendations.  Most plants in this climate will continue to absorb nutrients until the ground temperature drops consistently below 40°.

2. Edge your lawn and planting beds.  If the soil isn’t saturated, cold, firm soil allows for a clean cut, and a nice looking edge.  Using a square or half-moon spade, stand on the lawn, cut straight down 3-4”, and kick the cut soil away from you.  If you like, add the cut lawn scraps to the compost bin or pile.  Microbes in the soil will inoculate your compost and improve decomposition.

3. Cut back perennials, including ornamental grasses.  Some of these plants can provide visual interest when there is no snow cover, so cutting them back now is optional.  Compost the cuttings, but keep in mind, your composting system may not get hot enough to kill the seeds that are present.  Unplanned seedlings, sprouting in the garden, may or may not be a welcome surprise. Avoid adding diseased foliage to your compost.

4. Add mulch to cover bare ground, shrub and tree roots, or tender perennials, and add finished compost to your beds. Earthworms will work diligently to incorporate the organic material, into the top soil, right up until the ground freezes.

5. Create a compost pile or bin. Layer chopped leaves, kitchen scraps (vegetables, egg shells, coffee grounds. no meat) and garden soil. Add a few handfuls of lime, per layer, to speed decomposition.  Add a little water if conditions become dry.  Keep the composting material aerated by turning it over occasionally. Then, watch the steam rise as it cooks all winter long.

While not dependent on unfrozen ground, it’s also a great time to selectively prune both deciduous and evergreen, trees and shrubs, now that they are dormant.  Remove dead or unproductive wood, crossing branches, and branches that disrupt the shape of the plant. Thin plants that are overly dense. Holly and other evergreen boughs may be harvested for Christmas decorations now. Be mindful that many plants have already formed their flower buds for next year.  It won’t hurt the plant to prune off a few of them, if necessary, but, removing too many will diminish the display in the spring.  Use hand pruners to remove individual branches whenever possible. Shearing with hedge clippers should be avoided.

So, get out in your home landscape, get a little exercise, breathe some fresh air, and enjoy this short lived gift of warmth. Merry Christmas everyone!

Photo(s) of the Day – Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa)

Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa) aka False Cypress

Hinoki Crypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Gracilis'). Photo by : I. Hemingway

  • Type: Needled Evergreen Coniferous tree or shrub.  Exotic plant, native to Japan.
  • Uses: Dwarf, Medium, or Large specimen, screening, massed groupings, foundations, rock or Japanese gardens, depending on cultivar.

    Crippsi Hinoki Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Crippsii'). Photo by: I. Hemingway

  • Size: Species can reach 50′ to 120′ tall and 20′ to 25′ wide.  Size varies with cultivar; some cultivars mature to only 2 or 3 feet, others to 10′, 20′, 50′or more. Conical or narrowly conical in shape. Faster growing cultivars often have pendulous branches.
     
  • Growth rate:  Slow (sometimes extremely slow) to moderate. Again, varies with cultivar.
  • Light: Full sun to part shade is best. Will tolerate shade but will become open with time. This openness can be corrected, to some degree with pruning. Best sited out of the wind. Exposure to drying winds can desiccate the foliage, causing it to brown. Plants may become thin or die over time.
  • Soil: Prefers moist, well-drained, humusy, acid soil. Avoid dry locations.

    Foliage of Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana'. Photo by: I. Hemingway

  • Flowers: Monoecious and ornamentally insignificant.
  • Fruit: Small, brown cones. Not particularly ornamental.
     
  • Leaf: Scale-like, boat shaped, blunt tipped (obtuse). Handsome, fan-like, flattened foliage is dark green above and waxy below.  May droop at the tip. Leaves of some cultivars are gold or gold tipped.  Medium to fine texture in the landscape.

    Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana Lutea'. Photo by: I. Hemingway

  • Bark: Shedding, reddish-brown.
     
  • Cultivars: Over 200 cultivars.  Some favorites:

‘Crippsii’-Moderate grower with drooping, golden-green sprays. Becomes large, over 25′.

‘Filicoides-Fern like, dark green foliage. Slow growing to 8-10′.

‘Nana’-Dark green, compact form. Very slow to 3′.

‘Nana Lutea’- Another slow growing, compact form with greenish-gold foliage. 

 

‘Nana Gracillus’- Dark green, growing slowly to 6′. 

‘Little Ann’-Compact form with dark green, upright reaching branches.

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Little Ann'. Photo by: I. Hemingway